Cosmetic preparation comprising hyaluronic acid

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with an active substance combination of hyaluronic acid and saponins.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application is a U.S. National Stage of InternationalApplication No. PCT/EP2005/055677, filed Nov. 1, 2005, which claimspriority of German Patent Application No. 10 2005 012 554.9, filed Mar.16, 2005.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with an activesubstance combination of hyaluronic acid and saponins.

2. Discussion of Background Information

The desire to appear beautiful and attractive is naturally rooted inman. Even if the beauty ideal has undergone changes over the course oftime, the desire for a flawless outward appearance has always been theaim of human beings. The condition and the appearance of the skin is asignificant part of a beautiful and attractive outward appearance.Regular cleansing and care are necessary to give the skin a flawlessappearance.

Nowadays, consumers are offered a large number of cosmetic preparationsfor skin care, generally in the form of creams and lotions, i.e., as anemulsion. Products that temporarily or permanently delay or remove signsof aging in the skin (in particular the development of fine lines andwrinkles) thereby have steadily increasing importance. In addition towater for moisturizing the skin and oils and lipids for regreasing theskin, skin care products of this type contain a plurality of activesubstances, auxiliaries and additives.

The “aging skin” of older people differs from the “normal skin” ofyounger people in a plurality of symptoms. It is generally drier andshows an uneven hornification. Through its lack of water-bindingcapacity in the corium, deep wrinkles develop. The tendency of theepidermis to form vesicular flaking is increased. The appearance of oldskin develops in genetic aging as with chronic environmental damage, asis caused, e.g., by excessive UV exposure.

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can have acumulative effect and, e.g., accelerate or supplement the endogenousaging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, for example, the followingstructural damage and functional disorders appear in the skin as aresult of exogenous factors:

-   -   a) Visible telangiectasis (cuperosis);    -   b) Flaccidity and the development of wrinkles;    -   c) Local hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation and defective        pigmentation (e.g., age spots);    -   d) Increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g.,        cracking)    -   e) Decrease in the collagen content of the skin (e.g., through        reduced new synthesis and/or through increased decomposition)    -   f) Disturbances in the glycosaminoglycan and elastin metabolism.

Over the past years skin research has developed or discovered a largenumber of active substances with which skin aging manifestations can becosmetically treated and the visually perceptible skin aging process canbe slowed down.

Conventional skin care products for the prophylaxis and treatment ofskin aging symptoms, however, have the disadvantage that these activesubstances as a rule can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations onlywith difficulty and in unsatisfactory amounts. Furthermore, according tothe prior art the disadvantage regularly occurs that combinations ofactive substances are difficult to incorporate into the preparations,since the active substances can exhibit incompatibility not only withthe “carrier preparation” but also among one another.

The object of the present invention was to develop a new, stable andcosmetically effective skin care preparation for the prophylaxis andtreatment of skin aging manifestations, in particular fine lines andwrinkles. In particular the skin's moisture should be increased by theskin care preparation.

The objects were surprisingly attained through a cosmetic preparationcontaining a combination of active substances of

-   0.001 to 3% by weight of hyaluronic acid and-   0.01 to 4% by weight of saponins,    the weight data being based on the total weight of the preparation.

Furthermore, the objects were surprisingly achieved through a cosmeticpreparation containing a combination of

-   0.001 to 3% by weight of hyaluronic acid and-   0.01 to 8% by weight of leguminose extract, which contains 0.01 to    99% by weight of saponins,    the weight data of the hyaluronic acid and the leguminose extract    being based on the total weight of the preparation and the weight    data of the saponins being based on the total weight of the    leguminose extract.

In particular, the objects are surprisingly attained through a cosmeticpreparation containing a combination of

-   0.001 to 3% by weight of hyaluronic acid and-   0.01 to 8% by weight of soy extract, which contains 0.01 to 99% by    weight of saponins,    the weight data for the hyaluronic acid and the soy extract being    based on the total weight of the preparation and the weight data for    the saponins being based on the total weight of the soy extract

It has proven to be particularly advantageous according to the inventionthereby, if the weight ratio of hyaluronic acid to saponins is from 1:1to 1:10.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a cosmetic preparation. The preparationcomprises, based on the total weight of the preparation:

-   (a) from 0.001% to 3% by weight of hyaluronic acid; and-   (b) (i) from 0.01% to 4% by weight of one or more saponins; or    -   (ii) from 0.01% to 8% by weight of a leguminose extract or a soy        extract which comprises, based on the total weight of the        extract, from 0.01% to 99% by weight of one or more saponins.

In one aspect of the preparation, component (b) thereof may comprise oneor more saponins from glycosides of triterpene sapogenins and mayoptionally further comprise one or more saponins from glycosides ofsteroid sapogenins. In another aspect, the preparation may be present asan O/W emulsion. In yet another aspect, the preparation may comprise alipid phase with a total polarity of less than 30 mN/m. In a stillfurther aspect of the preparation, the weight ratio of hyaluronic acidto the one or more saponins may be from 1:1 to 1:10.

The present invention also provides a cosmetic preparation which ispresent as an O/W emulsion and comprises, based on the total weight ofthe preparation:

-   (a) from 0.001% to 3% by weight of hyaluronic acid; and-   (b) (i) from 0.01% to 4% by weight of one or more saponins; or    -   (ii) from 0.01% to 8% by weight of a leguminose extract or a soy        extract which comprises, based on the total weight of the        extract, from 0.01% to 99% by weight of one or more saponins.        The preparation further comprises a lipid phase with a total        polarity of less than 30 mN/m.

In one aspect of the preparation, the weight ratio of hyaluronic acid tothe one or more saponins may be from 1:1 to 1:10 and/or component (b)thereof may comprise one or more saponins from glycosides of triterpenesapogenins and, optionally, one or more saponins from glycosides ofsteroid sapogenins.

The present invention also provides a method for producing the cosmeticpreparation of the present invention as an emulsion. The methodcomprises either (a) dissolving the one or more saponins or the extractcomprising one or more saponins in an at least four-fold quantity of aglycol with a log P value between −3.6 and 1 to form a solution, and (b)adding the solution of (a) to a pre-emulsion; or (a) dispersing the oneor more saponins or the extract comprising one or more saponins in anaqueous phase of the preparation, which aqueous phase comprises an atleast four-fold quantity of the one or more saponins or the extract of aglycol with a log P value between −3.6 and 1 to form a dispersion, and(b) adding the dispersion of (a) to a fat phase of the emulsion, whichfat phase may comprise one or more emulsifiers.

The present invention also provides a method for the prophylaxis and/ortreatment of signs of skin aging. The method comprises applying to atleast parts of the skin the preparation of the present invention as setforth above (including the various aspects thereof).

In one aspect of the method, the signs of skin aging may comprise finelines and wrinkles.

The present invention also provides a method for making a cosmetic fortreating signs of skin aging. The method comprises employing for theproduction of the cosmetic a combination of, based on the total weightof the cosmetic,

-   (a) from 0.001% to 3% by weight of hyaluronic acid; and-   (b) (i) from 0.01% to 4% by weight of one or more saponins; or    -   (ii) from 0.01% to 8% by weight of a leguminose extract or a soy        extract which comprises, based on the total weight of the        extract, from 0.01% to 99% by weight of one or more saponins.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Advantageous embodiments of the invention are characterized in that thepreparation contains saponins from glycosides of triterpene sapogeninsin addition to optionally further saponins from glycosides of steroidsapogenins.

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan occurring in the vitreous body ofthe eye, the synovial fluid of the joints and in the skin, whichtogether with chrondroitin sulfates and dermatan sulfate is aconstituent of all connective tissue (apart from cornea).

Hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight compound with M_(R) between50,000 and several million. The basic unit of hyaluronic acid is anaminodisaccharide constituted by D-gluconic acid andN-acetyl-D-glucosamine in β-(1→3)-glycosidic bonding, which isβ-(1→4)-glycosidically linked to the next unit:

The sodium salt of the hyaluronic acid is used as moisturizer for theproduction of cosmetic agents (Römpp online Lexikon Version 2.5, 2004).

Saponin (from the Latin “sapo” for soap) is used to designate a group ofgenerally vegetable glycosides that as surface-active compounds formcolloidal saponaceous solutions.

Saponins are subdivided according to the type of their aglykones, thesapongenins, into triterpene saponins and steroid saponins. Thecarbohydrate content can consist of up to 11 monosaccharide radicals(mostly D-glucose, D-galactose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose, D-xylose,D-fucose, D-glucuronic acid).

The most important saponins occurring in foodstuffs, the oleanoic acidsaponins (beetroot), glycyrrhizine (licorice root) and the soybeansaponins belong to the family of triterpene-saponins.

In cosmetics, saponins are used as humectants and dispersing agents orfoaming agents with tooth powders, mouth-washes and shampoos (Römpponline Lexikon Version 2.5, 2004).

Although the active substances according to the invention are known toone skilled in the art in the field of cosmetics, it has not beenpossible hitherto to incorporate the combination of hyaluronic acid andsaponins into cosmetic preparations, in particular emulsions, in astable manner and effective form. For instance, according to the priorart the problem always arose with the combination of the two activesubstances that the homogeneous incorporation of the two raw materialswas not possible according to a standard method. It was thus notpossible either to guarantee a constant active substance concentration,particularly over a longer period. Both raw materials cannot beincorporated via the lipid phase, since they contain hydrophilicmolecular constituents. But incorporation of the two raw materials viathe aqueous phase is not possible either, since the saponins andhyaluronic acid cannot be homogeneously dissolved/dispersed in theaqueous phase simultaneously without forming cloudiness/crystals.

It was now possible to solve the problem according to the invention bydeveloping a special method for producing a cosmetic preparationcontaining saponins as well as hyaluronic acid: the saponins or theplant extract containing the saponins is hereby first mixed with atleast four times the quantity of a glycol with a log P value between−3.6 and 1 and dissolved with constant stirring and heating.Subsequently the solution is added to the pre-emulsion that is stillwarm if possible. Alternatively, the saponin can also be incorporatedinto the aqueous phase of the preparation, which contains at least fourtimes the saponin quantity of corresponding glycol: while being heatedand stirred constantly, the poorly soluble substance is stirred in anddispersed and subsequently combined with the fat phase, which containsthe emulsifiers. It proved advantageous in both cases to stir andpre-swell the hyaluronic acid separately in a multiple quantity ofwater, so that a gel is formed. This is added to the emulsion, which isno longer very hot, while being stirred.

Within the scope of the present invention, the preparations according tothe invention per se and the preparations produced according to themethod according to the invention and the preparations used according tothe invention are understood to be in accordance with the invention orpreparations according to the invention.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparationaccording to the invention contains saponins based on triterpenesapogenines. In the use of soy saponin, these are in particular saponinsfrom soy sapogenol A or soy sapogenol B. However, optionally saponins onthe basis of steroid sapogenines can also be contained.

The leguminose extracts (fabaceae fam.) are preferably selected fromrepresentatives of the genera abrus, anagyris, andira, anthyllis,arachis, aspalathus, astragalus, baptistia, canavalia, castanospermum,cicer, crotalaria, cyamopsis, cytisus, derris, dipteryx, galega,genista, glycine, glycyrrhiza, gymnoclamdus, indigofera, laburnum,lathyrus, lens, lespedeza, medicago, melilotus, mucuna, myroxylon,ononis, oxytropis, phaseolus, physostigma, piptadenia, psicidia, pisum,pterocarpus, robinia, sophora, trifolium, trigonella, ulex, vigna, viciaand wisteria.

Extracts of soybean (glycine soja), field bean (vicia faba), garden bean(phaseolus vulgaris), linamarin (phaseolus lunatus), mung bean(phaseolus aureus and vigna radiata), lentil (lens culinaris), alfalfa(medicago sativa), Chinese tragacanth (astragalus membranaceus), peas(pisum sativum), blackgram (vigna mungo), adzuki bean (vigna angularis),licorice (glycyrrhiza glabra), peanut (arachis hypogaea), sophora(sophora favescens), goatsrue (galega officinalis), chickpeas (cicerarietinum), locoweed (oxytropis), sunn hemp (crotalaria juncea),Japanese wisteria (wisteria floribunda) and white clover (trifoliumrepens) are particularly suitable hereby.

If the saponins according to the invention are present in the form of asoy extract, it is advantageous according to the invention if the soyextract is standardized to the sapogenin content. As natural products,soy extracts contain a plurality of compounds, the most importantrepresentatives of which are the fats, carbohydrates, proteins,isoflavones, lecithins and saponins. Depending on the extraction method,the extracts can contain different ingredients. For example, there aresoy oils or soy extracts that contain at least 90% isoflavonoids. Thosesoy extracts are advantageous according to the invention which have ahigh content of saponins. These should represent an enrichment ofsaponin compared to the content in the soybean. The soybean containsapprox. 6.5 mg/g saponins. The extract should contain at least 10 mg/g,but particularly advantageously even over 100 mg/g saponin. One exampleof an extract that is suitable according to the invention is the soybeangerm extract from Lucas Meyer Beauty Essentials with an approximatesaponin content of 140 mg/g. This is a yellowish powder with a slightinherent smell of roasted nuts.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation accordingto the invention is present in the form of an emulsion and according tothe invention particularly preferable if the preparation is present inthe form of an O/W emulsion.

It is thereby advantageous for the purposes of the present invention ifthe preparation contains one or more of the following emulsifiers oremulsifier combinations: polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyldimethicone copolyol, glycol distearate,glycol dilaurate, diethylene glycol dilaurate, sorbitan trioleate,glycol oleate, glyceryl dilaurate, sorbitan tristearate, propyleneglycol stearate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycol distearate,sucrose distearate, PEG-3 castor oil, pentaerythrityl monostearate,pentaerythrityl sesquioleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate,glyceryl diisostearate, pentaerythrityl monooleate, sorbitansesquioleate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, glyceryl caprate, palmglycerides, cholesterol, lanolin, glyceryl oleate (containing 40%monoester), polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-2sesquioleate, PEG-20 sorbitan beeswax, sorbitan oleate, sorbitanisostearate, trioleyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate and ceteareth-20(Teginacid from Th. Goldschmidt), sorbitan stearate, PEG-7 hydrogenatedcastor oil, PEG-5 soya sterol, PEG-6 sorbitan beeswax, glyceryl stearateSE, methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-10 hydrogenated castor oil,sorbitan palmitate, PEG-22/dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2PEG-4 stearate, sorbitan laurate, PEG-4 laurate, polysorbate 61,polysorbate 81, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, triceteareth-4phosphate, triceteareth-4 phosphate and sodium C₁₄₋₁₇-alkyl secsulfonate (Hostacerin CG from Hoechst), glyceryl stearate and PEG-100stearate (Arlacel 165 from ICI), polysorbate 85, trilaureth-4 phosphate,PEG-35 castor oil, sucrose stearate, trioleth-8 phosphate,C₁₂₋₁₅-Pareth-12, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-16 soya sterol,polysorbate 80, polysorbate 20, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate,PEG-40 castor oil, sodium cetearyl sulphate, lecithin, laureth-4phosphate, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl stearate SE, PEG-6caprylic/capric glycerides, glyceryl oleate and propylene glycol,glyceryl lanolate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl myristate, glycerylisostearate and polyglyceryl-3 oleate, glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 sorbitanperoleate, laureth-4, glycerol monostearate, isostearyl glyceryl ether,cetearyl alcohol and sodium cetearyl sulphate, PEG-22 dodecylglycolcopolymer, polyglyceryl-2 PEG-4 stearate, pentaerythrityl isostearate,polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, sorbitan oleate and hydrogenated castoroil and cera alba and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate andisopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, methylglucose sesquistearate,methylglucose dioleate, sorbitan oleate and PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil and ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-45/dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22/dodecylglycolcopolymer, hydrogenated cocoglycerides, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate,PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, PEG-8beeswax, laurylmethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-2 laurate,stearamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride phosphate, PEG-7 hydrogenatedcastor oil, triethyl citrate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphatepolyglycerol methylglucose distearate, poloxamer 101, potassium cetylphosphate, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearates.

Particularly advantageous according to the invention are O/W emulsifiersfrom the group of fatty acids, which are neutralized completely orpartially with conventional alkalis (such as, e.g., sodium and/orpotassium hydroxide, sodium and/or potassium carbonate and mono- and/ortriethanolamine). Stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid andisostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates and myristic acid andmyristates, for example, are particularly advantageous.

The O/W emulsifier(s) are preferably selected from the following group:PEG-9-stearate, PEG-8-distearate, PEG-20-stearate, PEG-8-stearate,PEG-8-oleate, PEG-25-glyceryltrioleate, PEG-40-sorbitan lanolate,PEG-15-glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, PEG-20-glycerylisostearate, PEG-20-glyceryl oleate, PEG-20-stearate,PEG-20-methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30-glyceryl isostearate,PEG-20-glyceryl laurate, PEG-30-stearate, PEG-30-glyceryl stearate,PEG-40-stearate, PEG-30-glyceryl laurate, PEG-50-stearate,PEG-100-stearate, PEG-150-laurate. For example, polyethoxylated estersof stearic acid are particularly advantageous.

The coemulsifier(s) are advantageously selected according to theinvention from the following group: butyloctanol, butyldecanol,hexyloctanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol, behenyl alcohol (C₂₂H₄₅OH),cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C₁₆H₃₃OH) and stearylalcohol (C₁₈H₃₇OH], lanolin alcohols (wool alcohols that represent theunsaponifiable alcohol fraction of wool grease which is obtained afterthe saponification of wool grease). Cetyl alcohol and cetylstearylalcohol are particularly preferred.

Embodiments of the invention that are preferred according to theinvention are characterized in that the preparation has a lipid phasewith a total polarity of less than 30 mN/m.

The total polarity of the lipid phase is thereby determined according tothe invention as follows:

Measuring instrument: Ring tensiometer (e.g., Krüss K 10) Measuredquantity: Specific interfacial energy = interfacial tension [unit: mN/m]Lower limit: 5 mN/m

The lipid phase can advantageously be chosen from the following group ofsubstances:

-   -   Mineral oils, mineral waxes    -   Oils, such as triglycerides of capric acid or of caprylic acid,        and also natural oils, such as, for example, castor oil,        macadamia oil, avocado oil or jojoba oil, dialkyl ethers, such        as, for example, di-n-octyl ethers, and dialkyl carbonates, such        as, for example, di-n-octyl carbonate    -   Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty bodies,        preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon        number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or        esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low carbon        number or with fatty acids;    -   Alkyl benzoates;    -   Silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes,        diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes, and mixed forms        thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, hydrodispersions or lipodispersions forthe purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected fromthe group of the esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length from 3 to 30 Catoms, and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcoholswith a chain length from 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of the estersof aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branchedand/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length from 3 to 30 C atoms.Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group ofisopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyloleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laureate, n-decyl oleate, isooctylstearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laureate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldocecylpalmiate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, aswell as synthetic, semisynthetic, and natural mixtures of such esters,for example, jojoba oil.

Furthermore, one may advantageously select the oil phase from the groupof branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, siliconeoils, dialkylethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched orunbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely thetriglycerin ester of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched alkanoic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12to 18 C atoms. One may advantageously select the fatty acidtriglycerides, for example, from the group of the synthetic,semisynthetic, and natural oils, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil,soy bean oil, peanut oil, rape seed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconutoil, palm kernel oil, and more of the like.

Likewise, blends of such oil and wax components may advantageously beused for the purposes of the present invention. Optionally, it can alsobe advantageous to use waxes, for example, cetyl palmitate as the solelipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously chosen from the group of 2-ethylhexylisostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane,2-ethylhexylcocoate, C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenzoate, caprylic/capric acidtriglyceride, and dicaprylyl ether.

Especially advantageous are mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenzoate and2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenozate andisotridecyl isononanoate, as well as mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenzoate,2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene may be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further include a content of cyclic orlinear silicone oils or may be composed entirely of such oils. However,besides the silicone oil or oils, it is preferred to use an additionalcontent of other oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used assilicone oil to be used in accordance with the invention. However, othersilicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of thepresent invention, for example, hexamethyl cyclotrisiloxane,polydimethylsiloxane, and poly(methylphenylsiloxane).

Other particularly advantageous mixtures are those of cyclomethicone andisotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexylisostearate.

Optionally, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to theinvention advantageously comprises alcohols, diols, or polyols having alow number of C atoms, as well ethers thereof, preferably ethanol,isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethyleneglycol, ethyleneglycolmonoethyl- or -monobutyl ether, propylene glycolmonomethyl, -monoethyl-,or -monobutyl ether, diethyleneglycol monomethyl- or -monoethyl ether,and analogous products, furthermore alcohols having a low number of Catoms, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol,2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerin, as well as in particular one or morethickeners.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can comprisecosmetic auxiliaries as are customarily used in such preparations, e.g.,preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventingfoaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners,surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and/orhumectant substances, fats, oils, waxes or other customary constituentsof a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as complexing agents,alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organicsolvents or silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins, perfumes.

In particular, active substance combinations used according to theinvention can also be combined with the antioxidants and/or radicalscavengers known in cosmetics.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also containsubstances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amountof the filter substances being, for example, from 0.1% by weight to 30%by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0% to 6.0%by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order toprovide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin fromthe entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used assunscreen for the hair.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filtersubstances, these can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageousoil-soluble UVB filters according to the present invention include,e.g.:

-   -   3-benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably        3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2-ethylhexyl)        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoate, amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;    -   Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl        4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;    -   Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate,        4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;    -   Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone;    -   Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl        4-methoxybenzalmalonate;    -   Esters of 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid, preferably        ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate,    -   Diethylhexyl-butamidotriazone,        2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example:

-   -   Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its        sodium, potassium, or its triethanolammonium salt, and the        sulfonic acid itself;    -   Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;    -   Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as, for        example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid,        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)sulfonic acid and its        salts and 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzene and        salts thereof (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g., the        corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts)        also called benzene- 1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonic        acid.

The list of the cited UVB filters that can be used in combination withthe active substance combinations according to the invention isnaturally not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filers that are customarilycontained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferablyderivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular1-(4′-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and1-phenyl-3-(4′ -isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.

Furthermore advantageous UVA filters come from the group of triazines,such as, e.g.,2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine(trade name: Tinosorb® S), and the group of triazoles, such as, e.g.,2,2′-methylene-bis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl]-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol)(trade name Tinosorb® M). An advantageous water-soluble UVA filter is2′-bis(1,4-phenylene)-1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid sodium salt(trade name Neo Heliopan AP®).

The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and/or other metalcompounds that are poorly soluble or insoluble in water, in particularoxides of titanium (TiO₂), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g., Fe₂O₃), zirconium(ZrO₂), silicon (SiO₂), manganese (e.g., MnO), aluminum (Al₂O₃), cerium(e.g., Ce₂O₃), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures ofsuch oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO₄).

Advantageously for the purposes of the present invention the pigmentscan also be used in the form of commercially available oleaginous oraqueous predispersions. Dispersing agents and/or solubilizers canadvantageously be added to these predispersions.

The pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), in whichcase, for example, the intention is to form and/or retain a hydrophilic,amphiphilic or hydrophobic character. This surface treatment cancomprise providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and/orhydrophobic inorganic and/or organic layer by methods known per se. Forthe purposes of the present invention, the various surface coatings canalso contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings within the scope of the present invention cancomprise aluminum oxide (Al₂O₃), aluminum hydroxide Al(OH)₃ or aluminumoxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No.: 1333-84-2), sodiumhexametaphosphate (NaPO₃)₆, sodium metaphosphate (NaPO₃)_(n), siliconoxide (SiO₂) (also: silica, CAS No.: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe₂O₃).These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone or in combinationand/or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings within the scope of the present invention canconsist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animalstearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone),methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture ofdimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organicsurface coatings can occur alone, in combination and/or in combinationwith inorganic coating materials.

The method for producing the cosmetic preparation according to theinvention is according to the invention as well, which method ischaracterized in that the saponins or the soy extract containing thesaponins is first dissolved in at least four times the quantity of aglycol with a log P value between −3.6 and 1 or in the aqueous phase ofthe preparation that contains this quantity of the glycol, and issubsequently combined with a fat phase containing the emulsifiers.

The log P value according to the invention is thereby calculatedaccording to the following program:

Manufacturer: Advanced Chemistry Development Inc. (ACD) 90 AdelaideStreet West, Suite 702 Toronto, Canada Program: ACD/LogD Suite v. 4.5

The use of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention or theactive substance combination of hyaluronic acid and saponins accordingto the invention for the cosmetic prophylaxis and/or treatment of skinaging manifestations, in particular fine lines and wrinkles, isaccording to the invention.

The use of an active substance combination according to the invention(i.e., the active substance combination of 0.001 to 3% by weight ofhyaluronic acid and 0.01 to 4% by weight of saponins, or 0.001 to 3% byweight of hyaluronic acid and 0.01 to 8% by weight of leguminose extractcontaining 0.01 to 99% by weight of saponins) for the production of acosmetic for treating skin aging manifestations, in particular finelines and wrinkles, is according to the invention. The plant extract ispreferably soybean extract.

These uses are according to the invention when the cosmetic or thecosmetic preparation is applied topically to the skin.

According to the invention the prophylaxis and treatment within thescope of this disclosure mean exclusively cosmetic prophylaxis andtreatment, and on no account a therapeutic prophylaxis and treatment asdefined by patent law.

The uses according to the invention are used in particular in skincreams or face creams, skin lotions or face lotions and day or nightcreams or lotions.

The following examples are designed to clarify the present inventionwithout restricting it. All quantities, proportions and percentages arebased on the weight and the total quantity or on the total weight of thepreparations, unless stated otherwise.

EXAMPLES Examples 1-10 O/W Creams

Example Number 1 2 3 4 5 Glyceryl stearate citrate 2 2 Glycerylstearate, 5 3 2 self-emulsifying PEG-40-Stearate 1 1 Myristyl myristate1 1 Behenyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol 2 1 Cetearyl alcohol 4 2 Cetylalcohol 1 3 Hydrogenated coco- 2 glycerides Shea butter 2 2 C12-15Alkylbenzoate 3 2 3 Butylene glycol 1 1 dicaprylate/dicaprate Caprylicacid/capric acid 1 1 2 2 triglyceride Ethylhexyl coconut fatty acid 3 1ester Octyldodecanol 1 Mineral oil 1 Petrolatum 2 1 2Octamethyltetrasiloxane 4 1 3 5 (cyclomethicon) Dimethylpolysiloxane 1(Dimethicon) Dicaprylyl ether 1 2 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3 TiO₂ 2Ethylhexyl 2 methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl cyanodiphenyl- 3 acrylate(octocrylene) Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol 0.5 methoxyphenyltriazineEthylhexyl salicylate 1 Glycine soja 2 1 4 Vicia faba 1 Medicago sativa1 Pisum sativum 2 Hyaluronic acid 0.01 0.1 0.05 1 0.6 Ubiquinone (Q10)0.05 Biotin 0.04 Retinol 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 1 Citric acid, sodiumsalt 0.1 Sodium ascorbylphosphate 0.1 Trisodium EDTA 0.1 0.2Iminodisuccinate, sodium 0.2 0.1 0.1 salt Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkylester (paraben) 0.6 0.2 0.3 0.3 Hexamidinediisethionate 0.04 Diazolidinyl urea 0.25 0.1 1,3-Dimethylol-5,5- 0.2dimethylhydantoin (DMDM Hydantoin) Iodopropynyl 0.1 butylcarbamateEthanol denatured 2 Xanthan gum 0.1 Polyacrylic acid (carbomer) 0.05 0.10.1 Polyacrylamide 0.2 1,2,3-Propanetriol 10 6 7.5 18 1,3-Butanediol 2 33 2 2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol 1 1,2-Propanediol 5 1,5-Pentanediol 21,2-Hexanediol 1 Water-soluble and/or oil- 0.05 soluble dyesFillers/additives (distarch 0.1 1 0.2 0.5 0.05 phosphate, SiO₂, BHT,talc, aluminium stearate) Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Water Ad 100Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Example Number 6 7 8 9 10 Glyceryl stearate,self-emulsifying 2.5 PEG-40-stearate 1 Polyglyceryl-3-methyl 3 glucosedistearate Sorbitan stearate 1 Polyethylene 2 glycol(21)stearyl-ether(steareth-21) Polyethylene glycol(2)stearyl 1 ether (steareth-2)Cetearyl glucoside 2 Stearic acid 2 Myristyl myristate 1 Behenyl alcohol1 Stearyl alcohol 2 Cetearyl alcohol 3 2 2 Cetyl alcohol 1 Hydrogenatedcoco- 1 1 glycerides Shea butter 2 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 4 5 2Butylenglycol dicaprylate/ 2 dicaprate Caprylic acid/capric acid 1 1 3triglyceride Hydrogenated polydecene 1 Ethylhexyl coconut fatty acid 2ester Octyl dodecanol 1 1 Mineral oil 1 Octamethyl tetrasiloxane 4 3 2(Cyclomethicone) Dimethyl polysiloxane 1 (Dimethicone) Dicaprylyl ether2 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 3 4 Polydecene 4 Ethylhexyl methoxy- 3cinnamate Phenylbenzimidazole 2 1 sulfonic acid Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol1 methoxyphenyl triazine Glycine soya 0.5 2 Crotalaria juncea 1 Lensculinaris 4 Arachis hypogaea 1.5 Hyaluronic acid 0.05 0.2 0.3 1 0.01Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.03 Tocopherol 1 0.5 Lactoferrin 0.05 Trisodium EDTA0.2 0.1 Iminodisuccinate 0.2 0.2 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.3p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkylester (paraben) 0.1 0.4 0.6 Hexamidinediisethionate 0.1 Diazolidinyl urea 0.2 0.2 0.1 Iodopropynyl 0.25butylcarbamate Ethanol denatured 8 3 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether 0.4(octoxyglycerin) Xanthan gum 0.1 Polyacrylic acid (carbomer) 0.2 0.1 0.1Polyacrylamide 0.2 1,2,3-Propanetriol 10 6 20 6 1,3-Butanediol 3 3 22-Methyl-1,3-propanediol 1,2-Propanediol 1 6 1,5-Pentanediol 21,2-Hexanediol 1 Water-soluble and/or oil- 0.1 soluble dyes Additives(distarch 0.03 0.1 0.05 3 1 phosphate, SiO₂, talcum, BHT aluminiumstearate) Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad100 Ad 100

1. A cosmetic preparation, wherein the preparation comprises, based on atotal weight of the preparation: (a) from 0.001% to 3% by weight ofhyaluronic acid; and (b) (i) from 0.01% to 4% by weight of one or moresaponins; or (ii) from 0.01% to 8% by weight of a leguminose extract ora soy extract which comprises, based on a total weight of the extract,from 0.01% to 99% by weight of one or more saponins; and wherein thepreparation comprises a lipid phase with a total polarity of less than30 mN/m.
 2. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the one or more saponinscomprise glycosides of triterpene sapogenins.
 3. The preparation ofclaim 2, wherein the one or more saponins further comprise glycosides ofsteroid sapogenins.
 4. The preparation of claim 1, wherein thepreparation is present as an O/W emulsion.
 5. The preparation of claim1, wherein a weight ratio of hyaluronic acid to the one or more saponinsis from 1:1 to 1:10.
 6. The preparation of claim 1, wherein thepreparation comprises (b)(i).
 7. The preparation of claim 1, wherein thepreparation comprises (b)(ii).
 8. The preparation of claim 7, whereinthe preparation comprises a leguminose extract.
 9. The preparation ofclaim 7, wherein the preparation comprises a soy extract.
 10. Thepreparation of claim 4, wherein a weight ratio of hyaluronic acid to theone or more saponins is from 1:1 to 1:10.
 11. The preparation of claim4, wherein the preparation comprises (b)(i).
 12. The preparation ofclaim 4, wherein the preparation comprises (b)(ii).
 13. The preparationof claim 12, wherein the preparation comprises a leguminose extract. 14.The preparation of claim 12, wherein the preparation comprises a soyextract.
 15. The preparation of claim 4, wherein the one or moresaponins comprise glycosides of triterpene sapogenins.
 16. Thepreparation of claim 15, wherein the one or more saponins furthercomprise glycosides of steroid sapogenins.
 17. The preparation of claim10, wherein the preparation comprises (b)(i).
 18. The preparation ofclaim 10, wherein the preparation comprises (b)(ii).
 19. The preparationof claim 18, wherein the preparation comprises a leguminose extract. 20.The preparation of claim 18, wherein the preparation comprises a soyextract.